Torque wreches are REAL cheap now. If they're THAT expensive in Australia, I see the opportunity for a wee export business from Scotland to OZ
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/sea/...1&cd=1&x=0&y=0 10 quid
Get Haynes manuala dn read it three times before considering doing the job. THEN read it again adn think waht if it all went wrong. IF you still feel confident, then all the above advice fits.
Empty the coolant AND empty the oil. Worth doign the latter as 'bits' often get into the sump, you want it all emptied out and refilled before starting the engine
you DO have to get the cam timing right, make sure and put the cam tensioner back properly ( mates BDA bent the tensioner on it's first turnover - had to get stripped down again
) Not sure of if you need to take the cam out on that engien, if not, fine, if you do, remember and make sure it's shimmed properly on rebuilding.
Inspecting the gasket, block and head where it's been leaking and try to surmise WHY. There may be some corrosion or face damage or warping. It's easy to check for warping IF you have a metal straight ruler - engineers metal rules are fine. Might be easier to take the head to a specialist - they should give you the nod on it OK for free
But wathc out they'll likely want to convince you somethign else needs done
While the head's off you shoudl check the condition of the valves and the valve seats adn stem seals. Also the pistons and bores. A good way to do all of these last things is to strip it off and then invite a mechanic mate round for a few beers adn ask him what he thinks needs doing
Originally Posted by Matra et Alpine
Torque wreches are REAL cheap now. If they're THAT expensive in Australia, I see the opportunity for a wee export business from Scotland to OZ
Reply With Quote